About Me: I have installed Lightning Rods since 1972 in the Maryland/PA/DE/NJ area’s.  I am now retired (working FULL TIME) in Arizona near Phoenix.  Although I don’t climb roofs any more, I now make or have made the many parts that you see here. (and many more not shown).  I hope that you like my  LIGHTNING ROD STUFF - Thanks for Looking. All Images are Copyrighted —NO REPRODUCTION OF IMAGES WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION. Phone: 623-518-6170

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ’s): All parts are UL Listed (Call for UL reference numbers)

1– How many Rods do I need to protect my building and how large of an area does a lightning rod protect? Please refer to the basic diagrams above and also read the above BASIC INSTALLATION DETAILS and ALL THE FAQ’s below. You are also welcome to call with your questions. 623-518-6170

2– I have a metal roof, what materials can I use? Copper will stain bare Aluminum and Galvanized steel. Therefore DO NOT attach copper materials to these surfaces and DO NOT attach Aluminum to Copper for the same reason. If you don’t want to use aluminum equipment, you can use Tinned (lead coated) Copper cable on most metal surfaces. If you need to connect Copper and Aluminum together, we have special Bi-Metal connectors (#CA3) for that purpose.

3– I have a Flat Roof and I don’t want to use Nails or Screws? Penetrations should NOT be made on commercial type flat roofs. We have adhesive equipment specifically made for that purpose, also special connectors for metal seam roof’s.

4– Will Aluminum Cable/Wires and Rods work as well as Copper? YES! as long as the installation rules are followed. Certainly Copper is a better conductor than aluminum, but the Aluminum cable is larger than copper therefore making up for it’s lack of conductivity and the cost is considerably less.

5-Won’t the cable get hot and burn my roof? NO! - The specially “BRAIDED” cable will not get hot from Lightning. Correctly installed braided cable provides a low resistance path to ground. If there is No Resistance, then there is No Heat. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) says that you can install Lightning Protection equipment on or through wood and most building materials. NEVER use cable that is designed for regular electrical power even if it is larger, it is not designed to conduct lightning. (See FAQ #6 below).

6- Can’t I use my own electrical wire and parts for my Lightning Rods? Regular electrical equipment, cable and wire is not designed to handle the immense power of lightning. If you are going to Install Lightning Rods, DO IT RIGHT and use the right equipment and braided cable that is designed especially for Lightning Protection. (See FAQ #16 below).

7– I have tall trees around my house, won’t the Lightning hit the tree first? It might hit the tree but with all of the metal, appliances, water pipes and electric wires that are in the house, lightning could flash over to the house on it’s way down the tree. A tree is NOT a substitute for Lightning Protection.

8– I live in a low lying area, do I still need Lightning Protection: If Lightning is above your home or building and if it is a shorter distance for the lightning to travel to it than to nearby higher objects, then you will get struck. Your home which contains much metal and electrical wiring is usually a much better target for lightning than nearby higher terrain and trees. With few exceptions, most outdoor areas are not immune from Lightning Strikes.

9– Is it true that Lightning Rods attract Lightning? NO! IT IS NOT. Lightning rods DO NOT attract lightning, however, since the rods are placed at the high points on roofs, lightning will strike the rods. If lightning were going to strike your home, it would strike whether lightning rods are there or not. An ungrounded Lightning Rod is no different than any other metal object on your roof such as metal vents, pipes, antennas, weathervanes, etc.

10– Someone told me that Lightning Rod’s don’t work? Lightning Rods are installed on; State Farm Insurance headquarters, The White House, Space Shuttle complex, and millions of other commercial buildings and houses around the world plus on the many of our own customers including: Palo Verde Nuclear Power Plant, U.S. Army, Navy, Air Force, Bank of America, Harford Insurance Co., etc., etc.—Lightning Rods work by two simple laws of Physics; (A) They Provide “THE PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE” and (B) They Provide “THE SHORTEST PATH TO GROUND”. - Lightning reacts quite differently than the low voltages in your home. Installation of Lightning Rods is not a part of the Electrician’s Code book (NEC) and is covered under separate codes of the National Fire Protection Association #NFPA-780 and the UL Standard #UL96A.

11– Someone I knew had Lightning Rods and had damage to TV and Appliances. WHY? Lightning Rods protect from a Direct Lightning Strike. Damage inside the home is sometimes due to Lightning entering through the utility wires. A power pole can get struck (even mile’s away) and the current will follow the (above or underground) wires into the house and destroy electrical equipment. The Rods on the roof have nothing to do with that. That is why you should also install SURGE ARRESTERS on the main electric panel and onto other wires entering the structure.

12- I heard that it takes a specialist to install lightning rods? If you use the correct materials, study and follow the instructions and take safety precautions, then there is no reason why you can’t do it yourself. A condensed copy of installation instructions are available for $12.00 postage paid or you can purchase a code book from the NFPA or UL.

13—Will a single Lightning Rod on the highest point of my roof protect my house? Only if it is a very small house though it may provide only partial protection it is better than nothing at all. - Lightning has many leaders and to intercept all of them, lightning rods should be installed on all of the high points such as on chimneys and ridges of your roof per proven methods as recommended by the National Fire Protection Association and UL. (See FAQ #14 below)

14 - I heard that a partial installation may be dangerous? For maximum effectiveness we do recommend installing a complete system per the NFPA/UL codes. However, the industry promotes that “Lightning Rods do NOT attract Lightning”. If struck, a partial installation would conduct at least some (if not all) of the current to ground. A correctly grounded and installed partial installation with all of the required connections made to metal bodies is certainly better than nothing at all but it may not provide complete protection to the entire structure.

15– I thought that my house was grounded when it was built: Yes it is grounded but only to provide electric power. The electric grounding rod is of little help if your roof is struck and lightning travels down through your home to get to the “ground”.- Correctly installed Lightning Rods and Surge Arresters are the only way to protect the home from lightning.

16– Technical facts: Lightning travels on the surface of the Lightning Rods and on each strand of the specially designed braided cable. The many strands of wire in the cable adds greatly to it’s surface area. The BRAIDING of the strands in the cable is very important. It has the effect of cancelling the Electro Magnetic Pulse (EMP). As current travels down each strand of wire and since the braided strands “cris-cross” each other, and “like charges repel”, the braided cable has the effect of cancelling the EMP as compared to regular solid or regular stranded electrical cable. The pulse of EMP around regular cable can couple with electric wires under roof and behind walls and can transfer very high current into electrical wiring. This is why it is important to use cable and equipment that is designed specifically for Lightning Protection. EXCEPTION: On structural steel buildings and below ground, regular stranded cable of sufficient size works fine since the EMP will be absorbed by the steel within the structure and in the earth.

17– I heard that blunt tipped lightning rods work better than the sharp pointed ones? Pointed rods have worked since the day’s of Benjamin Franklin. There is still a lot of debate as to which is better. We prefer to stay with the pointed rods that have worked very well for over 250 years. However, If you prefer blunt rods, we do have them in stock.

18– Why can’t I buy a pre-packaged “KIT” to install my Lightning Rods: No two installations are alike. If a kit were available, you would be paying for too much equipment that you can’t use or the kit may not contain all of the equipment needed for a complete installation. It does takes some study to estimate everything that you will need but it is the best and most economical way to buy Lightning Rods. We are always available to answer questions

19– What were the Glass Balls on the old Lightning Rods for? Over 100 years ago glass balls were introduced to lightning rods as a decoration. They serve no function. Today many people still add them to their lightning rods for fancy roof ornamentation. Contrary to belief the glass balls do not break when the rod is struck by lightning but certainly it may have happened occasionally.

20– How do I know that you equipment will work? Our Lightning Protection equipment is Made in the U.S.A., and is Underwriters Laboratories (UL) Listed. Please call for UL reference numbers on individual parts.—Thanks for your interest.      Content of this web site are copyrighted and are not to be used for commercial purposes.—No Reproduction without written permission.

                                                               SHIPPING and Ordering Information

 Order by Phone; 623-518-6170 and pay with VISA/MC/Discover or Pay Pal.—or Email; GILBERTPAQ@COX.NET

Orders ship in 1to3 days, plus the time it takes UPS to deliver. UPS tracking number provided upon request.

 Shipping is: 15% of the first $100.00 plus 5% of the balance over $100.00—(Example: A $200.00 order would cost $20.00 to ship) $5 Minimum *Reduced shipping charges may apply on large quantities of small light items. Rates are to lower 48 states.

Or you can mail your order to; Lightning Rod Stuff, LLC—P.O. Box 44—Youngtown, AZ 85363

REFUNDS are less shipping charges. No returns on Cable and custom made items. Items can be returned within 15 days for CREDIT towards other items plus shipping. Cash refunds are subject to a 20% Restocking Fee which may apply depending on individual circumstances. Returns are at buyers expense and must be returned insured within 15 days after receiving.

—Please call 623-518-6170 before returning items - Thank You.

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 For More Stuff, Click a link at  top or at bottom of this page.

1996—That’s me at 56 on left in Baltimore before I retired from installing. That’s my older brother on Right rigging me up to go down the side of the building at right to attach the Lightning Cables down to ground. We had to attach 7 cables and go down in 7 different locations around this building. (I trust only my brother for this job).

The heavy Cables have to be attached every three feet all the way down to ground.. Each of the attachments had to be drilled into the concrete and then attached with lead anchors. The cable is then connected to buried ground rod’s in the earth. This building is 240 feet tall and is located in Baltimore city.

Going up Steeple to attach the Lightning Rod to the cross. This Steeple  is 155’ Tall and is located in Havre de Grace, Maryland by the Chesapeake Bay. The Steeple required two separate cables to be run from the cross down to ground.

BASIC INSTALLATION DETAILS: *When installing a complete System, according to the UL and NFPA codes, Lightning Rods (called Air Terminals) should be spaced no more than 20’ apart along Ridges and Flat Roof perimeters.—Rods should be placed within 2’ of ends or outside corners. Each Lightning Rod should provide a two way path to Ground and one of the cables must maintain a horizontal or downward path to ground. All cables and rods must be connected together, you can not have a rod on each end of a house without a cable or connection between the two.- GROUND RODS or GROUND PLATES Should be placed 2’ or more away from the building. The top of the Ground Rod as well as the copper connecting cable should be buried below ground. - No Structure shall have less than 2 ground rods (Aluminum cable must not be underground. See grounding detail below). - CABLES Should be attached to the building every 3’ or less and the cable shall maintain a smooth flow avoiding sharp bends.—BONDING: Anywhere that the lightning cable is placed within 6’ of Large Metal Objects there should be a connection between the two to prevent a side flash.—UTILITIES such as the electric service ground should be connected to the Lightning Rod System.—ELECTRONIC SURGE ARRESTERS should be installed on equipment to prevent surges from entering through the utility wires. (see FAQ #10). PLEASE READ FAQ’s below.—Bare copper should not be installed on galvanized or aluminum surfaces and aluminum should not be installed on copper surfaces. No part of the installation can be “stand alone” ALL Roof Rods, Ground Rods and Cables must all be one interconnected system.

For Wire, Connectors, Grounding Equipment Click HERE “Misc. Parts” page.

Please take appropriate safety precautions when installing, also be aware that the Rods have sharp pointed tips that could impale you.

Install Ground Rod 2’ away from house and Bury the cable and the Top of Ground Rod below ground for a nice clean installation. Be sure that there are no underground utilities where you are driving the ground Rods. See Grounding details below..

Fasten cable with Clips and nails or screws every 3 feet.

Lightning Rod Zone of Protection.

Note that the thicker part of the Rod is not damaged because it is of adequate size to handle the Lightning Strike.

The Tip of this Lightning Rod that we installed on a Bank in Phoenix was struck by Lightning.

The sharp tip melted and the narrow part of the rod was bent by the Lightning.

The owner had no damage other than to  this LIGHTNING ROD which is still functional

(This rod is made of Tinned Copper).

 

Yes! - You can install your own Lightning Rods.

Copper or

45 o If over 25 feet tall.

To order Materials for a typical Residence you will first need to;

>– Study the Instructions/FAQ’s on this page & Look at the photos on Page6 Then study the Equipment on Cable/Parts Page.

>- Choose whether you need (or want) Copper or Aluminum materials (or you can use a combination of both Copper and Aluminum).

For a Basic Installation you will need:(1) #A6 aluminum cable or #C6 copper cable (2) #A2 or #C2 Clips and Nails to hold the cable 1 clip needed for every 3 ft. of cable.— (3) Choose the Lightning Rods for Roof and Chimneys, etc. (You can choose Basic Rods as shown on other page or Decorative Rods as shown on the Home Page or you can use a combination of both)—(4) Tee’s, and Clamps (5) If using Aluminum you will need #CA3 Bi-Metal Splicer’s for each grounding rod (6) and some Copper Grounding Cable #C6—See grounding details above. (7) #C19 Grounding Clamps (Ground rods are available at local Hardware) or If Ground Rods are too difficult to install use #C19 Grounding Plates - (8)#SYC Surge Arrester for the main electrical box. See FAQ #10 above. Phone: 623-518-6170 or Email GILBERTPAQ@COX.NET

Struck Lightning Rod

See Typical Grounding Details Below

Attach C2 or A2 Clip to cable every 3 ft.

Place Lightning Rods within 2’ (or Less) of corners and ends of roofs.

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